Bolt rope front beam on an older SC 17

[whalerman]

My boat is just about ready to put in the water. The new Aquarius Sail tramp looks great! But, the track on the front beam is riveted on and I fear that the rivets will pull out under the stress of a stretched tramp with weight on it. Somehow I don't think I am the only person out here with a riveted on front bolt rope track. Does anyone else have experience with this arrangement? If so, let me know if it holds up.

My gut tells me to drill out the rivets and replace them with stainless pan head screws with nylock nuts on the inside of the beam as the nuts will have more bearing area. As the weather is really nice her now I would appreciate comments soon.


Thanks.

Update *****

Here is what I did this evening to assess the situation.

I looked inside the tube as the tramp was being tensioned.

I did not see any of the rivets deform, nor did I see any corrosion on the inside or outside of the tube. The tramp was nicely tightened so I had my son roll around on it to stretch it a bit, then tightened up the laces. The rivets do not appear to be pulling out, so I think it is time to sail. Perhaps I will go the bolt and barstock route in the fall as preparation for next season.

Those of you who are looking for a new tramp would be well served by one from Aquarius Sail. The stitching and grommet work is perfect and the tramp looks just right. I hope to be sailing on Friday.

[Kevin Keller]

I'm wondering how you would get nuts on all the screws way down the tube?

If they are aluminum rivets they could be replaced with SS rivets. I think that would be easier than trying to get nuts.

Or you could use an aluminum bar drilled and threaded for the screws.

[whalerman]

The nuts are easy. I will tape a breaker bar to a ratchet with the nut in the socket to reach down in the tube.

[Kevin Keller]

Really?? Sounds like it could take a while, let me know how it turns out.

[whalerman]

How would one properly index the holes in an aluminum bar? Clamp it in place I guess, mark the location of the holes with a sharpie, then send the bar out to be drilled and tapped?

This would be complicated by the sleeve that occupies the center third of the main beam on a 17......

The nuts sound like a better idea, or the stainless rivets...

[whalerman]

It took 20 minutes to drill out the rivets, then an hour to put in the 22 screws and nylock nuts. I used 1/2 and 3/4 inch stainless steel truss head screws. The new Aquarius Sail tramp looks great. I will be sailing on it in a couple of hours. All in all this was a pleasant project.

[Kevin Keller]

Sorry, I didn't see your post until now.

I would clamp the bar inside of the tube (you could clamp it on the outside also, which would be easier I think) then marked the spots where I wanted the screws to go. Drill through both with the tap drill to get the alignment, then enlarge the tube's hole and tap the bars holes.

Glad it worked. I have a 12 foot beam so it might have been harder to do mine than yours with your method.