I am getting to know my new (to me) ca.1988, Brazilian built, SC17.
It has a wire traveler, which I would normally pull all the way in when beating. However, a much more experienced cat sailor recommends keeping it about 6 inches off center. Why is this better?
The second question is related, and has to do with mainsheet. Again, normally I would pull it in almost block-to-block (yet you must consider that the wire traveler elevates at mid-crossbar and that I use a quick-release hook where the top blocks attach to the main; all this adds some distance).
I guess that if I was wrong on the traveler, perhaps I could also improve the mainsheet triming. Cheers!
SC 17 Main & Traveler adjustment (upwind)
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Pab,
I don't know about letting out the traveler 6 inches, if that is better or not. Personally I would pull it in as tight as possible when beating especially if you have a wire traveler, which adds a little slop. I could be wrong though.
I am not a pro but that is an interesting question.
With solid beams I would replace the wire traveler with a track.
Kevin
I don't know about letting out the traveler 6 inches, if that is better or not. Personally I would pull it in as tight as possible when beating especially if you have a wire traveler, which adds a little slop. I could be wrong though.
I am not a pro but that is an interesting question.
With solid beams I would replace the wire traveler with a track.
Kevin
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Thanks guys for the reply and the interest. We sail in Paraguay, which is landlocked, North of Argentina. The Supercats started with a fleet of Brazilian SC17s and later on were brought some Boston Whalers, mostly from Michigan (both 15 and 17).
Weekend-only sailing and freshwater lakes permit sails and gear to last forever. However, I have my eyes set on a new main, tubular battens and eventually a track traveler.
Because of my monohull-upbringing, this boat is full of enigmas (such as a jib with 2 grommets vs. fixed jib blocks). But I am both experimenting and asking, so that the race committee no longer asks me to collect the marks and bring them ashore after I round them.
Current issue: get the rudder blades to be stiff on their casting, and castings to be stiff on the hulls. Any hint?
Cheers!
Weekend-only sailing and freshwater lakes permit sails and gear to last forever. However, I have my eyes set on a new main, tubular battens and eventually a track traveler.
Because of my monohull-upbringing, this boat is full of enigmas (such as a jib with 2 grommets vs. fixed jib blocks). But I am both experimenting and asking, so that the race committee no longer asks me to collect the marks and bring them ashore after I round them.
Current issue: get the rudder blades to be stiff on their casting, and castings to be stiff on the hulls. Any hint?
Cheers!
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Try this post.
viewtopic.php?t=108&highlight=rudder
As for loose rudder/ transom castings about the only thing I can think of, if I understand you correctly is to tighten up the bolts that hold the gudgeons onto the transom. If you look at my post on refurbishing a SC-20 there are pictures of what the inside of the transom probably looks like.
Kevin
viewtopic.php?t=108&highlight=rudder
As for loose rudder/ transom castings about the only thing I can think of, if I understand you correctly is to tighten up the bolts that hold the gudgeons onto the transom. If you look at my post on refurbishing a SC-20 there are pictures of what the inside of the transom probably looks like.
Kevin